Never toss cashmere in the dryer – high heat and tumbling will shrink or misshape it. Instead, always air dry flat. After washing, support the wet sweater with both hands (wet cashmere is heavy and can stretch if you let it dangle)​. Press out excess water gently – don’t wring or twist the sweater, which could pull it out of shape​.

A great trick is to lay the sweater flat on a clean towel, then roll the towel up with the sweater inside (like a jelly roll) and press the roll lightly​. This towel roll will soak up a lot of moisture​. Unroll the towel, reshape the sweater to its original dimensions (adjust sleeves, straighten hems), and lay it flat on a dry towel or a mesh drying rack** in a cool, well-ventilated area away from direct sunlight or heat sources​. Spread it in its natural shape (for example, align the shoulders and button bands) and let it dry fully. Do not hang a wet or damp cashmere sweater – the weight of water will stretch it out of shape​.

Patience is key: Cashmere may take a day or two to air dry. If the sweater is still a bit misshapen after drying, you can very lightly steam it or use an iron on the cool setting on the reverse side to smooth any wrinkles – but generally, properly dried cashmere shouldn’t need much ironing​

After rinsing, roll your cashmere sweater in a clean towel to gently blot out water​. Then lay it flat in its natural shape to dry – never hang wet cashmere, as gravity can stretch the delicate fibers​.

Even high-quality cashmere will form small fuzz balls or pills over time, especially in areas of friction (under the arms, sides, or where you carry a bag).

Don’t worry – pilling is normal and doesn’t mean your sweater is ruined. In fact, the first few wears might produce some pills as loose fibers work their way out​.

Gently remove pills with a cashmere comb or sweater stone. Lay the sweater flat and lightly brush the comb across the fabric to lift pills away – work in one direction and avoid snagging the knit​.

Pay attention to high-friction spots like inner arms and sides​. It’s good practice to comb your cashmere regularly, even before you see pills, to remove loose fibers that could tangle into pills​.

Avoid using motorized fabric shavers too aggressively; while some electric sweater shavers can work, they may thin the fabric if overused​. A comb designed for cashmere (usually a small handheld tool with a fine screen or edge) is inexpensive and effective. By de pilling occasionally, you’ll keep your sweaters looking smooth and new.

Also try to minimize friction when wearing your sweater – for example, be mindful of rough jacket linings or seatbelts that rub the knit​.

When your cashmere sweater isn’t being worn, fold it – don’t hang it on a hanger, which can cause shoulder dents and stretching over time​. Store folded sweaters on a shelf or in a drawer.

For longer-term storage (like over the summer), see the Moth Prevention & Seasonal Storage section of this guide for detailed tips.

In short, you’ll want to ensure the sweater is clean (moths love lingering food or sweat on fibers) and stored in a breathable bag with some natural moth repellent like cedar. Day to day, let your sweater “rest” between wears – giving it 24 hours to air out and spring back helps the cashmere fibers regain their shape​.

You can even place it outside (not in direct sun) or by a window for a bit; cashmere is naturally odor-resistant, so a brief airing removes any minor odors​. By rotating your sweaters and not wearing the same one daily, you’ll avoid over-stressing the fibers and keep them plush.

Scarves often brush against makeup on the face or neck. Foundation or powder makeup can leave marks on a cashmere scarf, but these are treatable (see the stain removal section below for specifics).

To prevent heavy makeup transfer, consider applying a scarf after your makeup is set, or choose colors that won’t show slight powder traces (a patterned scarf can hide small marks).

Perfume is another consideration – spray perfume before putting on your cashmere scarf, not after, as the alcohol in perfume can dry out fibers and leave a scent that lingers in the wool.

If your scarf picks up a smoke or food odor while out, simply air it out overnight – cashmere’s natural odor-resistance will usually release the smell with a bit of fresh air​. You can also mist it lightly with a fabric freshening spray (one formulated for wool/cashmere) and let it hang to dry.

Red Wine (or Coffee/Tea) Stains: Tannin-based stains like red wine, coffee, or tea can set permanently if exposed to heat, so keep it cool​.

The moment you notice a wine spill on your cashmere, blot (don’t rub) the area with a clean cloth or paper towel to soak up excess liquid. Then, if possible, flush the area with cold water – hold the stained part under cold running water or pour cold water through the back of the fabric to push the wine out.

For wine on a sweater, for example, place a white cloth under the stain, then dab from the top with another cloth soaked in a mixture of one tablespoon white vinegar and 250 ml water​.

Vinegar can help neutralize the wine’s pigments on colored fabrics​. After treating, wash the garment as usual (hand wash cold).

Another method: use a pH-neutral dish soap solution – a few drops of clear dishwashing liquid in cool water – and gently sponge the stain, then rinse​.

Always use cold water for wine stains and be patient; you might need to repeat the gentle washing once or twice.

Do not use salt or hot water (salt can set some dyes, and hot water will cook the tannins into the wool). If a faint stain lingers after drying, a professional cleaner can help, but many wine stains come out with prompt, cool-water treatment at home.

Powder makeup (face powder, blush, bronzer) can usually be brushed off if dry – use a soft clothing brush or even shake the garment out. If there’s a mark, soak the area in cold water with a little mild shampoo, then hand wash as normal​.

Liquid foundation or concealer on cashmere (often oil-based) should be treated like an oil stain: see the next bullet for oil techniques. Lipstick or other greasy makeup (like creamy foundation or eyeliner) contains oils and pigments.

First, carefully blot off any excess with a dry cloth or tissue – do not smear it further. A nifty trick for oily makeup like lipstick is to use baking soda: lay the item flat, cover the stain with baking soda (which will help absorb oils), and let it sit 15–20 minutes​. Brush off the baking soda – much of the stain may come with it​.

Then apply a little diluted gentle detergent or stain solution to the remaining mark and let it soak in cool water. Another approach for lipstick is using a tiny bit of rubbing alcohol or makeup remover on a cotton swab to dab the stain edges (test on an inconspicuous area first to ensure it doesn’t affect the dye). Once the bulk is gone, wash the garment normally.

Important: Avoid rubbing vigorously; you don’t want to fuzz up the cashmere. Instead, dab and blot repeatedly. For any makeup stain, multiple gentle treatments are better than one aggressive one.

Oil doesn’t mix with water, so these stains sometimes need an absorbent or detergent to break them up.

As with lipstick, absorbents like baking soda or cornstarch are your friends. If you drip oily salad dressing on your cashmere wrap, quickly lay it flat, sprinkle the spot with baking soda, and let it sit. The powder will soak up a lot of the oil​.

After a while, shake or brush off the powder (outside or over a sink). Next, treat the area with a bit of dish detergent – dish soap is designed to cut grease and many are safe for wool in small quantities​.

Apply a drop of gentle dish soap or a stain remover (like The Laundress Stain Solution) to the stain, gently massage the fabric together at that spot (imagine rubbing the cloth against itself, not against your fingers, to work the soap in)​. Let it sit a few minutes, then rinse with cool water. You may need to repeat the dish soap treatment for heavy oil stains.

Afterward, wash the garment in cool water with your wool shampoo to remove any soap residue. Never use hot water on oil stains – it can set protein-based stains and won’t help with oil anyway.

Also, do not put a still-stained cashmere item in a dryer or iron it, as heat can set any remaining stain.

If you notice yellowish sweat stains on underarms or collars (which can happen even with cashmere, though wool is somewhat odor-resistant), treat them with a vinegar rinse. Rinse the area with cold water mixed with a little white vinegar to neutralize odor and salts​. You can also use a stain solution directly on the area before washing​. For deodorant marks, a damp cloth with a touch of mild detergent can lift the white residue, followed by a rinse.

Let mud dry completely before cleaning (trying to wipe wet mud will smear it). Once dry, gently shake or brush off the dirt clumps. Then spot-clean any remaining mark with a cloth dipped in cool soapy water, dabbing gently​. Rinse and wash normally.

Don’t use bleach or any chlorine-based cleaner on cashmere – it will damage and discolor the fibers​.

Don’t use hot water or iron a stained area, as it can set stains permanently. Always resolve the stain first before any heat is applied​.

Don’t vigorously rub the stain – this can cause pilling or even create a thin spot/hole in the knit​. Work gently and patiently.

Don’t panic if the stain doesn’t come out immediately​. Soak and repeat – tough stains (like dried sauces or old wine) might take a couple of cycles of treatment, but multiple gentle attempts are effective​.

Clean Before Storage: Always wash your cashmere garments before long-term storage​. Moths are primarily attracted to sweat, body oils, and food residues in fabrics – even if your item looks clean, tiny traces can attract bugs. By laundering your sweaters, scarves, etc., you’re not only removing these attractants but also possibly washing away any moth eggs that might be present. Make sure the item is completely dry after washing; storing even slightly damp wool can lead to mildew or mold.